The BVIs: “THE” Sailing Destination

Sunlight hits your face as a cool breeze travels across your bed.  The lapping of water and the fragrance of a million types of flowers wakes you.  Outside your hatch is an aquarium full of an unimaginable number of aquatic species waiting to be discovered and luscious green hills that provide a perfect backdrop to another day of exploration and relaxation.  Are you dreaming?  Is this heaven?  No, it’s just another day on a boat in the BVIs.

The British Virgin Islands (BVIs) are a unique group of forty or so islands due east of Puerto Rico.  Unlike some other parts of the Caribbean, the BVIs have thus far remained nearly untouched and unspoilt.  The result is crystal clear water, a huge abundance of ocean life, and an unhurried vibe that makes for a perfect respite from the daily 9 to 5.  

The sheer number of islands within a small area also sets the BVIs apart from other destinations, with the distance from the western portion of the main island of Tortola to the eastern end of the second biggest island, Virgin Gorda, reaching only just over 25 miles.  Just think of that—in the same distance as Redwood City to the Golden Gate, the BVIs cram in literally hundreds of anchorages, in any of which lies a truly magical experience.  

The combination of pristine nature and utter abundance of choices results in a destination handcrafted for sailboat cruising.  No other area packs so many spectacular opportunities into such a small area.  The ability to drop a mooring ball and move to the next jaw-dropping anchorage all within an hour or two (or less) makes the decision to try someplace new easy, even if your morning is a bit rough from the Painkiller(s) the night before.  Without any fuss or trouble traveling downwind with the trades, you need only to unfurl the jib and let the breeze take you at a leisure pace to the next sheltered bay.  Jump in the water, snorkel around the reefs, lay on the beach, explore the island, try the local cuisine, and come back to your floating home, looking up at the tropical night sky.

While the main draw to the BVIs is certainly getting away from it all, the islands do have multiple settlements to provide all the necessary creature comforts as well as good cuisine.  The main settlement on Tortola, Road Town, is the largest by far of all the towns in the BVIs and provides stores and shops to provision your boat for the journey along with good restaurants serving both Caribbean and other cuisine.  The second largest settlement on the island of Virgin Gorda, Spanish Town, is smaller but still has more than enough shops to reprovision and try a few restaurants.  Spanish Town is also just up from the famous Baths, an otherworldly collection of enormous granite rocks formed many many years ago and today create tons of nooks and crannies on a perfect white sand beach, allowing peace and privacy for a wonderful day on the beach.

No description of the BVIs would be complete, however, without a generous nod (and a healthy pour) to Jost Van Dyke.  The famous (infamous?) island to the west of Tortola became famous in the 1960’s when a local known as “Foxy” set up a small bar under a tamarind tree, welcoming a new class of “cruising sailors” to his island.  Since then, Foxy’s has put Jost Van Dyke on the map as a must stop for any sailor that wants to enjoy a few sips of rum on the beach.  With numerous bars, there’s always a good time to be had with a drink in your hand and a story on your lips.  One of the most famous (besides Foxy’s) is the Soggy Dollar Bar, named because without a pier, thirsty customers must jump in the water to grab a drink ashore.  Even though it should now likely be renamed the “Soggy Credit Card Bar” or even the “Soggy iPhone Bar” to keep up with current payment methods, there is still no pier, so jump in the water and sidle up to the bar as sailors have done for over 50 years.  Make sure to get a Painkiller, as the Soggy Dollar Bar is widely regarded as the birthplace of this delightfully refreshing tropical cocktail similar to a pina colada, but far more delicious (and stronger—you have been warned!).

If the last few hundred words of unabashedly over the top praise has not revealed my own heavy bias toward these amazing islands, let me just be clear—I could spend the rest of my life in the BVIs and still not get enough of these islands.  But even if the realities of life mean I only get a few weeks out of each year to relax on their beaches, swim in their waters, and sail in their breezes, I’ll still count myself lucky.

Find out how to join a trip to the British Virgin Islands HERE